LongTime.

Haven't been many posts around here as of late.

Presently at the airport in Vancouver fresh of a sojourn in Alaska. Salmon, octopus, shark, and a variety of crabs were visited and/or dined on. Peep game.







*Bonus snicket stopped in a saloon for a quick gin & tonic. Thought the bottle art was bonkers.




**Double bonus: The sky.

Keys, Please.

Happiness Is A Warm (& Crispy) Apron

So I had my first official stint in a bona fide kitchen last week at Zingerman's making fresh buckwheat pasta for thirty people. I arrived on site with my Godmother's pasta machine (like the one you see in this video which makes me so happy), a rolling pin and a whole lot of butterflies. I'd never made buckwheat pasta before and had only used the flour well and fork technique for making dough in the past so I was a little nervous about feeding thirty, but when a giant food processor was placed in front of me the flutterings in my stomach soon vanished. After making the dough I decided to hand roll it and leave all cutting up to my knife. The pasta machine stayed in the bag. The use of machinery (to make the dough) had to be compensated by some serious manual labor. I wish I had taken a moment to take some photos of the finished product. I thought of my grandmothers, my mom and all the important women in my life and had many flashbacks into the various kitchens of my youth where I found so much happiness. Busy hands can free the mind... I heard through the grapevine that people loved the pasta. Gush.

Rise & Shine

P & M's Lorne Crescent Morning Menu:

Chamomile tea or Genmaicha
Bowl of rice
Pieces of nori paper to enjoy with rice
Miso soup
A sliced pear

Napoleon's Bubbles

Jacquesson was the champagne of choice of Napoleon Bonaparte. My favorite, cuvée No. 729, is composed of 34% chardonnay, 34% pinot noir and 32% pinot meunier. Its bubbles are strong and crisp and explode in the mouth like fireworks; its notes of pear, citrus and black pepper are beautiful. It is refined and sophisticated but by no means detached from its earthly provenance. A great character to accompany food or to be sipped on alone, I give it many thumbs up and hope you will consider the small house of the Chiquet brothers in the future. What some have said:

"This House is superbly demonstrating its commitment to producing full, concentrated Champagnes, exemplified by the impeccably long Brut Perfection and a magnificent, unctuous 1988. All the other cuvées are similarly remarkable."
- Bettane & Desseauve, Le Classement des Vins

"Jacquesson was always good, but is now exemplary, with amazing attention to detail in the vineyard finding its way through into stunning cuvées."
- Serena Sutcliffe MW, Decanter

2007: Year of the Log

I will remember 2007 for many reasons. However, with respect to my culinary endeavors, I will remember it as "The year I made my first Bûche de Noël". Daunting as I thought the task would be I had such a ball I made a second one a handful of days later. Yellow cake, crème de marrons and chocolate ganache. A beautiful trio that goes something like this...

Ingredients:

3/4 c. flour
1 c. hazelnuts or almonds, finely chopped
1/4 c. sugar
1/3 c. sugar
7 eggs, separated
pinch of salt
2 tbsp. butter, melted

Oven: 400 degrees Farenheit
Line a shallow 9 x 12 baking pan with aluminum foil.
Butter or oil the aluminum foil.

The Cake:
1) Mix together 1/4 c. sugar with the cup of chopped nuts. Add 2 tbsp. of melted butter and a shot glass of liquor if you wish.
2) In another bowl blend together, until pale yellow, 6 egg yolks with 1/3 c. sugar
3) Combine bowls 1 and 2 together and add 3/4 c. of flour
3) In another bowl add a pinch of salt to egg whites and foam until stiff
4) Fold egg whites into cake batter, reserving about 3/4 c. to 1 cup of egg whites to make the mushroom meringues for decoration.
5) Pour into baking pan and bake until a toothpick comes out clean, about 30 minutes

The Filling:
500 g can of Clement Faugier Crème de Marrons vanillée

The icing:
Whip all of these together, incorporating the sugar and cocoa gradually so as to control the sweetness and/or bitterness desired.
1 cup of heavy whipping cream
1/2 c.- 1 c. cocoa powder
1/4 c. - 1/2 c. sugar

Assembling the cake:
Remove the cake from the pan by flipping it upside down. The cake will fall out of the pan with the aluminum foil facing upwards. Remove the aluminum foil. Spread marron cream over the cake. Roll into a log. Place onto a serving dish. Spread icing and decorate with grated chocolate, powdered sugar and mushroom meringues.

Mushroom meringues? To be continued...

Rest In Peace Bobby

(Scallops en Papillote)

Ingredients: 1 lb. of bay scallops, 1 bunch of asparagus, 3 or 4 handfuls of cherry tomatoes, 1 can of cannellini beans, 1/4 c. fresh dill, 3 tbsp. of olive oil, salt & pepper, to taste. **Mix all ingredients together in a bowl. Scoop out handfuls of the mixture onto individual sheets of parchment paper. Make little packages and cook in oven for 15-30 minutes (depending on how done you like your scallops) at 350 degrees . **As delicious as it is good for you. Serve with rice, quinoa or by itself for an extra low calorie feast. Backstory: This recipe was introduced to me by Miss A. Williams - doctor by day, chef and master knitter by night - at a dinner party last week, where sommelier Maciek D. kept our glasses brimming with ice cold Vinho Verde - a perfect match for the dish - and Watercolor/Acrylic powerhouse K. Jacobson set the mood by dimming the light switches and playing the tunes of Don Covay.

11 O'Clock Tick Tock

The Louvre on a Friday's morning.

De l'Histoire Naturelle

Talking Country

The grive (a kind of thrush) is a coveted bird of the terroir that people in the south of France have been eating for generations in the months of winter...when the men go hunting in the hillsides. Their preparation goes something like this, for those with weak stomachs spare yourselves from reading past the colon: we pluck them, hang them in a dark closet with their innards intact (upside down) and allow them to ferment for two to three weeks or until a droplet forms on their beaks. This "goutte" as we call it indicates that the birds are ready to be wrapped in lard and roasted in the fireplace. After the 20 or so minutes it takes to cook them, we open a bottle of red and eat every part of them with toast. A salad of frisette with garlic dressing usually accompanies the meal as well as banter about whose grive ate a juniper berry (a berry which heightens the taste of the meat). A delicacy of Provence, author P. Labonté might call this dish, "real talk". I just hope I haven't hurt anyone's stomach...

MercyMercyMe...

With the possible exception of Gérard Mulot and Pierre Hermé most Parisians will agree that Ladurée's macaroons are the best in the city. Last week I went to rue Bonaparte to taste for myself. Between the sweet pillowy delights of lemon, vanilla and rose; not the mention the opulence of the shoppe, I left feeling pleasantly lightheaded. For a little sugar, click here.

inaKi San

Events and circumstances iotas short of demonstrating the principles of string theory led my friend Ismay and I to the Chateaubriand this afternoon to break bread. Grateful they did as we were both in need of what we found: serious comfort food.

Pictured above: My new favorite drinking glasses; joue de boeuf (cow's cheek) served on a bed of spinach and leeks topped with zesty persillade; almond milk infused with roses, served with litchis & a pavé de chocolat with matcha ice cream; our empty plates.

I was so happy to learn, afterwards, that Inaki and his team of four recently melted the heart of the Figaro's harshest critic. Watch for him. The young basque chef has got his ticket to ride.

Interviews with the chef 1 & 2

Le Chateaubriand
129, Avenue Parmentier
Paris, 11ème
Métro: Goncourt

**Lunch (served between 12h-14h): 14 euros
**Dinner (served between 20h-21h30): 20-30 euros

December 14th Baby:

dELiciOus MoRseL

This walnut cake is a lot like a string quartet. The way I hear it: the nuts play the bass line on cello; the eggs carry the tenor voice on viola; the sugar plays the alto register of the first violin; and, the lemon zest, the soprano register of the second violin. It's light, and the crispy layer which forms on top of the cake will remind you of those little Amaretto cookies you find in cafés...which are always wrapped in the loveliest paper.

Recipe copied, parola per parola, from Maxine Clark's cookbook, Viva Italia.

L'Ingrediente:

2 cups walnuts
4 eggs, separated
1 1/4 cups sugar
Finely grated zest of 1 lemon
Confectioners' sugar, to decorate

Instruzioni:

Uno: Grease and flour a 9-inch springform pan. Line the bottom with wax paper.

Due: Grind the walnuts in a food processor until they are finely ground.
* Processorless, I got to chopping; it didn't take long to get the job done.

Tre: Put the egg yolks and sugar into a large bowl and whisk with an electric mixer until they are pale and creamy. Fold in the ground walnuts and lemon zest. Whisk the egg whites in a separate bowl until stiff then carefully fold them into the nut mixture. Gently pour the batter into the prepared pan.

Quattro: Bake the cake in a preheated oven, 350 degrees, Farenheit, for 45 minutes to 1 hour; until risen and firm. Let the cake coolin the tin; it will shrink away from the edges. When the cake is cold, remove it from the pan and dust with confectioners' sugar.

cHocolate, cReaM puFFs & OpeRa

Verdi, pastries and claymation. Sigh.

From the series "Opera Imaginaire" (1993)
Directed by Guionne Leroy & Pascal Roulin

All The Trimmings (Part 2)

This summer my dear friend Ruth made a lot of pies on her native island of Vinalhaven, located two hours off the coast of Maine, using the wild berries of the island and her family's legendary crust recipe, which, along with her tour de main, won her the hearts of many local market goers. Pictured above are the pies she made for her family's Thanksgiving feast, which I was lucky enough to attend for the second yearin a row. I had no difficulty finding room for slices of all three after the turkey and fixings. And her raw apple pie even quelled my inner voice's resolute skepticism. To make matters more American, we headed west towards Boulder at the crack of dawn the next morning. We had ourselves a picnic on the Iowa banks of the Mississppi at noon with the leftovers of the previous day and enjoyed some more of them in North Platte, Nebraska a few hours later. On the road, eating turkey and listening to Bruce Springsteen; we did not drive through the Badlands but The Boss painted us a fine picture.

hUitRes+mOuLesFritEs=deLiCiEuX

The Big Boss of the North shucked all 24 of these oysters in a record seven minutes. Bottles were popped by minute eight of the evening and by minute 27 the mussels and sweet potato fries were on the table. Now that's what I call delicious.

wHat's CookinG graNdma?

I did a quick two-step when I read about this site in this month's issue of Gourmet magazine. Like peaches and cream.

tHe bAnK

brOdy sTyle scALLops

A nice recipe from another famous New Yorker, Jane E. Brody, who, like Grimaldi's resides in Brooklyn.

Sauce:

3 tbsp. dry sherry
2 1/2 tbsp. tomato sauce
4 tsp. oyster sauce
4 tsp. soy sauce
2 1/2 tsp. sesame oil
1/2 tsp. sugar
1/4 tsp. ground pepper

optional, in my opinion:

1 tbsp. cornstarch
1 1/2 tbsp. cold water

Stir- fry:

2 tbsp. peanut or canola oil (I used olive oil)
1 pound bay scallops
3 large garlic cloves, peeled and minced
2 tsp. minced or grated gingerroot
1 large red pepper (i used an orange one)
1 large zucchini
(I had a 1/2 cup of uncooked eggplant leftover in the fridge and used it, as well. Turned out nicely.)
4 scallions

1) Prepare the sauce by combining the sherry, tomato sauce, oyster sauce, soy sauce, sesame oil, sugar, pepper in a small bowl. Set bowl aside.

2) If you would like to use the cornstarch to thicken the sauce place it in another small bowl with water, stir and set aside.

3) Heat your wok or large frying pan over high heat. Add the scallops and stir-fry them until they become opaque. Remove them with a slotted spoon onto a dish and set aside. Do not discard the oil in the pan, you will continue to use it.

4) Add the minced garlic and ginger to the oil. Allow them to simmer in the oil for about 10-20 seconds. Now, add the red pepper, zucchini and scallions. Stir-fry until they are cooked to your liking.

5) Stir the reserved sauce and pour it into the wok or pan along the sides. Return the scallops to the pan. Stir in the cornstarch one teaspoon at a time. Stir-fry so as to reheat the scallops and serve.

6) I added a little lime zest for garnish, you could also use some chopped fresh scallions.

Recipe taken (and annotated) from p. 162 in Jane Brody's "Good Food Gourmet: Recipes and Menus for Delicious and Healthful Eating" (1990)

Oyster Mushrooms

Handpicked and ready to be sautéed in olive oil, garlic and parsely.

aloHa RosE

flower: rare aloha rose

QuEEn of LouiSiaNa: irMa ThOmas

I was on my bike this morning, ahead of me, a girl on her bicycle had a shirt that read, "Diamonds are nice, so are pearls, but there's nothing like a Mississippi girl". Made me smile and got me thinking about the South and Irma Thomas and how I needed to post a little something again. She's one of my favorites and I hope she'll become one of yours, too. There's no one else like her. Make sure to start with her old numbers, track names found below...

From the "Sweet Soul Queen of New Orleans: The Irma Thomas Collection"

1. Cry On
2. I Done Got Over It
3. It's Raining
4. Hittin' on Nothin'
5. Ruler of My Heart
6. Wish Someone Would Care
7. Breakaway
8. I Need Your Love So Bad
9. While the City Sleeps
10. Time Is on My Side
11. Anyone Who Knows What Love Is (Will Understand)
12. Moments to Remember
13. Straight from the Heart
14. Take a Look
15. It's a Man's Woman's World, Pt. 1
16. Long After the Night Is All Over
17. Times Have Changed
18. He's My Guy
19. What Are You Trying to Do
20. Nobody Wants to Hear Nobody's Troubles
21. The Hurt's All Gone
22. I'm Gonna Cry 'Til My Tears Run Dry
23. It's Starting to Get to Me Now

cHeRRy piE

made with michigan's very own cherries and the kind words of marion rombauer (joy of cooking).

SittiNG SidEwaYs

The other night I found this bottle of buckwheat ale at the corner store and really enjoyed it. I think it might be nice to try again with a dish of zaru soba. As seen in the photo I found on Google Images, below. Thank you Google.

( tHe iCe CreAm MaN is CominG )

Last night I took a stroll through town to get a scoop of butter pecan ice cream before sundown. The Washtenaw Dairy is a widely respected establishment in Ann Arbor. They make delicious ice cream and waffle cones and have been around since 1934.

Washtenaw Dairy
602 S. Ashley St.
Ann Arbor, MI 48103
(734) 662-3244

p.s. violets are good for your health (full of vitamins A & C).

ChiRp ChiRp ChiRp

...42...

Lots of Dodgers fans don't know that Jackie Robinson played for the Montréal Royals in 1946. Lots of Montrealers don't know that he lived on de Gaspé street during his stay and that the monument dedicated to him at the entrance of Olympic Stadium used to be right on the northeast corner of Ontario E. and Ave. de Lorimier, where the Delorimier Downs used to be. The monument cost $50,000 and was paid for by the Expos. It was commissioned on January 27, 1987 and inaugurated in the presence of Mrs. Rachel Robinson on May 16, 1987, leaving the artist, Jules Lasalle three months to make all the necessary models and molds. Wheww... Then, in 1989, the city moved the monument to Olympic Stadium on the grounds that it would be more 'visible' to tourist and baseball fans. I took a trip to the monument's old site yesterday. Super depressing. When they removed the statue in '89 they placed a granite podium with a plaque dedicated to Les Royaux (that no longer exists) on home-plate. Originally, the statue of Robinson and the two kids were set at ground level on the pitcher's mound in this miniature version of a ballpark – created for the monument. Now that the Expos are gone I think the city should repatriate the statue to the former Royals playing field. It's where Robinson would have played and piece of pride that was taken away from the neighborhood. From Richard to the present...eastenders have really been getting the fuzzy end of the lollypop...

For information about any of Montreal's public works of art, please, step into the portal...


A baseball related lunch from Lafleur's

tHe EaSteR buNNy really ExiSts

it's just that he may not have 20/20 vision or be white and fuzzy. after waiting more than thirteen years for another one of his visits i learned a thing or two this easter: 1) the easter bunny carries a lot more than chocolate eggs in his basket, and 2) he has a serious repertoire of culinary delights up his sleeve...

if he hasn't been by to see you this year, i hope the sight of this bread and card will make your heart smile as much as they have made mine.

sending many make-believe chocolate eggs your way,
the ketchup kid

PeBBLeS & StiCkS

Lady Julia's blog, Pebbles & Sticks, is fresh out of the frying pan...
The sun shines again...

...BreAkTimE...

This salad celebrates one of the chicory family's most remarkable offspring, the radicchio. The recipe was given to me by a friend's mother, who I also like to call 'mom' whenever I get the chance. When she was young she studied the recorder with a master in Pratolino (where she first tried radicchio)...back in the days when the Villa Demidoff (a Medici Villa then) hadn't been restored and no one seemed to care much about the place. One day, she climbed over a part of the estate's crumbling wall. Not long after making it over did she find herself standing before the great Apennine. I like to think he'd been waiting for her visit...for 320 years. He's gotten all kinds of calls since then, and has had his wounds mended by specialists. Anyways, I hope you get the chance to try it out. I made it this weekend when my mind was beginning to tire from studying and call it the "Fuel for Fire Salad" now. It's like an energy drink, only it's in your salad bowl...

1 small radicchio, chopped
1 pink grapefruit, pith and skin removed
1/2 avocado
1 green onion/chive
1/4 c. almonds (lightly browned in a pan)

Dressing:
1 tbsp. lime juice
3 tbsp. olive oil
salt and pepper, to taste


The Apennine awaits your visit...

...InTheStackSBeBAckSOOn...

Two words I'm loving these days: El Bulli



(thanks for the visit)

...wALteR thE SeLTzeR MaN...

This one goes out to all you seltzer lovers. This show aired on All Things Considered (NPR) in 2002 as part of the New York Works: Audio Portraits of a Vanishing City series. If you should crave an egg cream by the end: click here.

TRANSCRIPT OF WALTER THE SELTZER MAN

...SoFtBoiLEdWoNderlanD...

Nothing like starting the day with a soft boiled egg and a letter from a friend. If you go online, you'll see that people have come up with 100 & 1 techniques...

Here's one way to make and enjoy a soft boiled egg:

Bring a saucepan of water to boil. Slowly lower egg into water using a large spoon. 3-4 minutes later, remove the egg from the water...

Place in a shot glass, egg holder or small cup. Remove the shell from the top or bottom part of the egg by hitting it with a teaspoon.

Cut off the white tip of the egg. Sprinkle with salt and pepper.

Dunk pieces of bread (some people call them "soldiers") into the egg yolk and enjoy...

...FloUrLess deliGht...

Chocolate cake that involves no flour is one of my favorite things. This recipe has been copied directly, word for word, palabra por palabra, from the of Joy of Cooking (p.729). The only thing I did a bit differently was add cinnamon and allspice, about 1/4 teaspoon of each to the melted chocolate. Happy Baking!

Flourless Chocolate Decadence
One 8-inch round cake

Have all ingredients at room temperature, about 70 degrees F.
Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F. Grease an 8 x 2-inch round
cake pan (not a springform) and line the bottom with wax or
parchment paper.

Combine in a large heatproof bowl:
1 pound bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, coarsely chopped (I used chocolate chips)
10 tablespoons (1 1/4 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into 10 pieces

Set the bowl in a large skillet of barely simmering water and stir often
until the chocolate and butter are warm, melted, and smooth.

Remove from the heat and whisk in:
5 large eggs

Beat in a large bowl on medium speed until soft peaks form:
5 large egg whites
1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar (optional)

Gradually add, beating on high speed until the peaks are stiff but no dry:
1 tablespoon sugar

Use a rubber spatula to fold one-quarter of the egg whites into the
chocolate mixture, then fold in the remaining whites. Scrape the batter
into the pan and spread evenly. Set the pan in a large shallow baking dish
or roasting pan, set the dish in the oven and pour in enough water to
reach hallway up the sides of the cake pan. Bake for exactly 30 minutes.
Set the cake pan on a rack to cool completely, then refrigerate until chilled,
or overnight. To unmold, slide a thin knife around the cake to detach it
from the pan. Invert the cake and peel off the paper liner. Reinvert onto
a serving platter. Using a doily or hand-cut stencil, if desired, sprinkle
with:
Confectioner's sugar (I also used cocoa powder)

Store in refrigerator, but remove 1 hour or more before serving to soften.

StiLL KinG AfTer aLL TheSe Years

...LoVe SToRies...

Like opening a chest of sunken treasure.

La Cabosse d'Or
Read about how the shop came to be...
It's a bit like the LU story.

BuCHE de NoEL

I found these guys while perusing the net for a Bûche de Noël recipe. Couldn't read their instructions, so I went and consulted with Martha.
Happy Holidays...

aLL tHE trimMinGS

ComingSoon.

Scoured the whole of the United States looking for the TASTY Pizza pie.

The results coming soon.

OfficialBrooklyn.

Mini Pumpkin Pies

Pâte Brisée:

1 1/4 cups flour

1/2 tsp salt

1 tbsp. granulated white sugar

1/2 cup unsalted butter, softened

1/8 to 1/4 cup ice water

Combine all dry ingredients together. Work in butter. Slowly incorporate ice water. Roll into a ball, cover, and place in fridgedaire for 30 minutes. Grease pie molds. Roll out dough. Place in molds. Bake for 15 minutes at 350 F. Remove from oven. Allow to cool. Pour in pumpkin filling.

Pumpkin Pie Filling:

(Mix all ingredients together in a blender, or manually in a bowl)

3 eggs

1, 15 oz. can of pure pumpkin

1/2 cup 35% cream (or evaporated milk)

1/2 cup brown sugar

1 tsp. ground cinnamon

1/2 tsp. ground ginger

1/8 tsp ground cloves

1/2 tsp salt

Bake pies at 350 F for 20-30 minutes. Ready when you pass a knife into filling and it comes out clean. Allow to cool. Serve with whipped cream.

GasTronomiC suiCide

Marco Ferreri made "La Grande Bouffe" (The Big Dinner/Meal) in 1973. It's a Franco-Italian production that includes some of the best from both worlds: Marcello Mastroianni, Philippe Noiret, polenta and crêpes suzette. The story goes...four friends lock themselves away in the villa of an aristocratic, vieux-garçon (played by Philippe Noiret) to eat until the death. They eat and eat and eat and eat and eat and eat and eat and eat; become lonesome; invite some ladies to their table; eat some more; and then, dip into some serious debauchery. Even though Fauchon prepared the dishes for this film, all I wanted to eat by the end was some be bim bop. As you may well imagine, there's quite a bit of social commentary running throughout this cinematic number, including, but not limited to the ever so famous saying: You are what you eat.

Umrao Jaan

I sat and cried with fifty or so women at the premiere of J.P Dutta's rendition of Mirza Hadi Ruswa's epic tale of the Lucknow courtesan, Umrao Jaan, last night. The theme song (Agle Janam Mohe Bitiya) says: "Oh God. What did I do? Please do not let me come back as a daughter, again." Umrao Jaan is the distant cousin of Gaspara Stampa. It's a sumptuous production: the costumes, dances and music are...wheww...incredible. I've had the soundtrack on repeat since 8 o'clock this morning.

Rime d'Amore XLIII

Dura è la stella mia, maggior durezza
è quella del mio conte: egli mi fugge,
i' seguo lui; altri per me si strugge,
i' non posso mirar altra bellezza.
Odio chi m'ama, ed amo chi mi sprezza:
verso chi m'è umìle il mio cor rugge,
e son umìl con chi mia speme adugge;
a così stranio cibo ho l'alma avezza.
Egli ognor dà cagione a novo sdegno,
essi mi cercan dar conforto e pace;
i' lasso questi, ed a quell'un m'attegno.
Così ne la tua scola, Amor, si face
sempre il contrario di quel ch'egli è degno:
l'umìl si sprezza, e l'empio si compiace.

- Gaspara Stampa

And now, a word or two on movie snacks in India:

They sell everything from Pizzas and burgers to Indian snacks - dahi vada, chaat, papri chaat, lasagna, rolls (you know, kebabs wrapped in a paratha). These are at the multiplexes. The standalones (a dying breed) have things like jhaal muri (spicy/hot puffed rice with onions etc), the snacky stuff like chaat etc.

- S. Sen, Calcutta, India

DoMesTiC BliSS

Domestic bliss is a Kitchen Aid stand mixer. This isn't the souped up version (that one is a jaw-dropping $545.00) but it will still respond to the command of "bippty boppity boo." And did I mention that you can get one in any color that falls within the visible spectrum?

As Normal As Apple Pie

My friend asked me to bake her a classic American style apple pie for her 25th birthday, something I'd never made before. Seeing as she'd taken care of my bully in the 7th grade (in a most regal way I might add) I was in no position to persuade her into chocolate cake. And so I hit the bookstore and scribbled down A to Zs recipes. The one I leave you with is a conflated number I threw together from the 20 some recipes I consulted. I learned that the success of the apple pie is in the dough and that if you poke it, brush it with egg and freeze it for atleast 15 minutes before baking you should achieve outstanding results.

I got to use my friend's old fashioned oven, too. It was like I'd just been handed the keys to a white, Citroën Traction and when I opened the door...Charles Trenet was playing.




The Dough (it's almost shortbread-like):

2 1/2 c. flour
1 c. butter, softened
1/2 c. sugar
1 egg
1/4 c. milk
1 tsp. salt
dash of cinnamon
splash of vanilla extract
lemon zest

***Knead all of these ingredients together. If the dough is crumbly and dry, keep adding milk or cold water. Then roll out your dough (on a floured surface, using a floured rolling pin, or if you're like me and don't have one, use a wine bottle) until it's about a 1/4 inch thick. Butter your 9-inch pie dish. Place dough in dish so that the surfaces are well covered and poke with fork. Then, take an egg, beat its white and brush it onto the dough (you will use the yolk to glaze the top part of the pie's dough before placing it in the oven). The egg white acts as a kind of barrier between the cooked apples and the crust, so that the latter doesn't become soggy during the baking process. The place the pie dish in the feezer. Leave it in for a minimum of 15 minutes. Now your dough will not shift size during baking. Keep the remaining dough. You will only have to roll this dough out, place it on top of the pie and brush with egg. You can make petal-like incisions into the top layer of dough and create a flower pattern or make any designs you like.

The Pie-Filling:

6 granny smith apples, cored, peeled and chopped
1 lemon, its juice (lemon zest, optional)
1 tbsp. butter
1/4 c. brown or white-granulated sugar
1/2 tsp. cinnamon
1/2 tsp. nutmeg
1/4. tsp. clove
1/4 tsp. allspice

Set oven to 400F. Combine all of these ingredients in a bowl. Pour into frozen pie shell. Cover with remaining dough. Cut out your pattern of choice. Brush with egg yolk and place into oven. Bake for 25-30 minutes. Remove from oven, allow to cool for 15 minutes and serve with vanilla ice cream.

thE 2 GoLiGHtLyS

"Breakfast at Tiffany's" was supposed to star Marilyn Monroe. Word is, Capote couldn't stand Audrey Hepburn and had written the character of Miss Golightly with Norma Jeane in mind.

When I came across this photo of Miss Hepburn it reminded me of the time my friends baked a batch of Neiman Marcus chocolate chip cookies. The introduction to their recipe says it better than I possibly could.

It's a sumptuous cookie I'm sure both Golightys would have enjoyed...

soOiSHi

In Japanese, oishii means delicious and I'd have to agree that this blog is, indeed, quite tasty. There's also So Oishi Tokyo to visit. From what I gather, the mastermind behind So Oishi lived there for the summer. You'll be able to catch some live footage from a Daft Punk concert, some beautiful photographs of the Tokyo fish market and many other things oishii.

claFoutiS

In France we eat a lot of these for dessert or in the morning for breakfast. A clafoutis (pronounced kla foo tee) is made by placing fruit in a pan and covering it with batter that would otherwise have be used to make crêpes. It doesn't call for any fancy ingredients and can be prepared in under 15 minutes. *Watch out for cherry clafoutis; it may make you weak in the knees.

Ingredients:

1/2 c. flour
1 1/4 c. milk
2/3 c. sugar
3 eggs
2 tsps. or tbs. vanilla, rhum, cointreau or grand marnier
pinch of salt
3 cups of the fruit of your choice ( I used little plums for this one)

How to make a clafoutis:

Set oven to 350 F degrees.
Prepare your fruit. Pit and slice if need be (it's common to not pit the cherries in France).
Mix all of the liquid and dry ingredients together in a blender for about a minute on its highest setting.
Getting air into the batter will create a fluffier end result.
Take a round baking dish that is 1 1/2 - 2 inches high and about 8 -9 inches in diameter, butter and flour it.
Arrange your fruit on the bottom of the dish in a pattern or just leave them any which way.
Take the blended batter and slowly pour it over the fruit.
Place dish in oven and bake for about one hour, or until a knife comes out clean and the top is golden brown.
Allow to cool.
Sprinkle with sugar.
Enjoy.

Many thanks to Jean for the first Ketchup Kid banner, ever.

5 A.M. At tHe WaFFle hOusE

A warm cup of good morning, waffles, eggs, bacon, toast and grits at the Waffle House make for one of the most monumental breakfast experiences the highway can offer. We stopped into one in Ohio on our way back from Indiana. If you're ever roadtripping through the U.S. and see that yellow and brown sign, pull over...






Other breakfast spots of note:

1) Northside Grill, Ann Arbor, MI (for the bacon, eggs and tasty hashbrowns)
2) EATS, Los Angeles, CA (outdoor seating that looks out onto a golf course, you feel like you're in Caddy Shack)
3) Barney Greengrass, NY, NY (for the bagel and lox)

Favorite Montréal breakfast spots:

1) McGill Pizza (for the Special: 2 eggs, bacon or sausage, potatoes, toast, coffee, and a small glass of orange juice)
2) Beauty's (for the bagel and lox)
3) Moe's
4) Restuarant Lamarche, 804 Roy (corner with St. Hubert). They offer cretons and baked beans with their breakfast special.
***Any place that has an all-day breakfast

TheTastySnicket.

When in Japan make sure to stock up on Marie biscuits.
They are tastiest with a cup of green tea.
I usually eat them about an hour after gorging on oooodles of that tasty Uni.

LeXinGtOn, KeNTucKy.

julePs & GreEn tOmaToeS

A friend and I headed south for Kentucky last weekend. She needed to escape the doldrums of work life and I needed to get my hands on a mint julep. A pit stop in a motel and a few hours later, we found ourselves in Lexington at the tourist office inquiring about horse races, best places to camp and...where to find a mint julep. We'd miss the races (which take place in April and October) but could still have a drink, according to the two ladies from the office. In fact, they were so thrilled that we try some while in Kentucky that phonecalls to local hotels and restaurants quickly ensued. And that's how we ended up at DeSha's Restaurant greeted by the entire staff about an hour later. By 11:30 a.m., we had a julep in one hand and a fork to indulge in some fried green tomatoes in the other. That's when we learned that mint juleps are a bit like egg nog (in that they are seasonal) and are enjoyed during Derby season, in principle, when they are served in silver cups with lots of crushed mint. So while ours weren't the most authentic...we did learn a thing or two about bourbon.

WHAT DOES IT TAKE TO BE A BOURBON?

Bourbon must be made from corn and must be aged for at least two years.

TASTE-TESTING BOURBON?

Drinking a bourbon with something made with or from corn will help bring out its natural aromas and flavors. We had cornmeal battered fried green tomatoes with ours...but, cornbread may be an excellent thing to eat while taste-testing different bourbons. And, a little side note: fried green tomatoes are not made from unrippened red tomatoes, but rather a unique variety that always remain green. Green tomatoes(the kind you find in the south) are a bit tarter than regular red tomatoes and have a bit of a lemony taste.

According to DeSha's bartender, Ronnie, Kentucky's finest bourbon is a bottle of 20 or 23-year-old Pappy Van Winkle. At $60.00 a shot or $250.00 a bottle, it's supposed to be the smoothest and most incredible of all bourbons. People sign up on the Van Winkle waiting list every year, as well, as there are only about 900 to 3,000 bottles available per bottling season. The next one is scheduled for Spring 2007. I've already started putting away a dollar a day.

...piCniCpiCniC...

On Murray Hill way up in Westmount with the first lady of J. Shiek, Miss Julia S., for a picnic, yesterday. On the menu: sandwiches of camembert, basil and tomato, followed by a dessert of yellow watermelon (enjoyed in the company of dear friend, Charlie the squirrel) and some mineral water straight from the springs of Bergamo.

***All items were carried from Atwater station, to the 24 bus, to the top of the hill in J. Shiek beach party bags. All goods arrived in pristine condition.

tOwN & CouNTry #1

There's been a lot of lamping in the Laurentians going on this month and I should have some photos of blueberry bushes (as well as a recipe for a five o'clock apéro) up sometime early next week.

Here are some photos from our last weekend's trip.
Miam...merguez.

...tHe HuRRicane...

...LiMeSoDA...

Ingredients: limes, sugar & club soda

1 lime for every 8 ounces of club soda
1 tsp.-1 tbsp. sugar for every 8 ounces of drink

Squeeze limes into a pitcher or cup.
Stir in desired amount of sugar and allow to dissolve.
Pour in club soda.

Try again with lemons, grapefruit or oranges.

..cRuMbLers...

Flour, brown sugar, butter and the fruit(s) of your choice.
That's how the crumble crumbles.

The key is to take a 1/4-1/2 cup of butter out of the fridge before you get crack-a-lacking, as it's ideal to make your crumble with softened butter. This should take anywhere from 30-60 minutes.

Once the butter has mellowed, take a bowl and mix together, with one hand (so that your other hand may add the following ingredients as you go along), flour (about 1 cup) and brown sugar or white sugar (1/4-1/2 cup) until you have a crumbly and sandy mixture. Other things to consider adding to the crumble include: vanilla bean, cinnamon, dried coconut or nuts.

As for the fruit...any fruit will do: peaches, apples, blueberries, cherries, strawberries, raspberries and all other fruits I've forgotten to mention make for a fine crumble...used alone or in combinations. Some people sprinkle sugar on the fruit before covering them with the crumble topping; however, if you're looking for tang, you won't need to do this. Just make sure you grease your baking dish or ramequins before adding the fruit. Once that's done cover them with the crumble topping and bake in an oven set to 250 degrees.

Allow to bake for 30 minutes, or until you see that the fruit has cooked well and the crumble top is golden brown.
Remove from the oven and allow to cool.

Crumble is delicious served with vanilla ice cream or crème anglaise.

The ones in the photograph are peach/blueberry.
If you looking for ramequins you'll find them at the Dollar Store.
4 for $1.oo?

...L'aCe de PiC qui PiQuE MoN CoEuR...

The Chi-town princess flew into town the other day to find herself a flat. And, after a day of hunting, joined us for dinner with tickling stories (of applying to over 60 medical schools) and this lovely box of chocolate "shooters"...

"Cause chocolate should spend more time with alcohol, especially the Jack Daniel kind," says she.

I hear they make mayanesque hot chocolate and remarkable gelato, too.

Suite 88
3957, rue St. Denis (between Roy and Duluth)
Montréal, QC H2W 2M4
tel: 514.844.3488

Merci, Caro.

...eYE cAnDY...

...ChAiNed tO thE sToVe...

I look forward to the day when I will be able to waltz into a shop like this and buy one of these bad boys.

The Ketchup Kid endorses all gas ranges made by Miele, Viking, Gaggenau, Aga and DeDietrich.

...CaNdY ShOPpe...

Caffarel chocolate, caramels from Britanny and highland toffee!

Confiserie Louise-Décarie
4424, rue St. Denis
Montréal, QC H2J 2L1

...OLa MojitOs...

Shizaam! The best mojito on the island.

Barraca (Rhumerie & Tapas)
1134 Mont-Royal E. (cross-street Christophe-Colombe)

...BuRgeRs aNd GeNghis KhAn...

The season of BBQing has arrived and Ferguson has introduced us to the "FergurBurger".

Here's the recipe, as dictated by the chef:

900 grams ground beef
one egg
1/4 cup bread crumbs
2-4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 tbsp. Jamaican all-spice
1 tbsp. herbes de provence
½ tsp. black pepper
1/2 tsp. salt
chili powder or flakes, to taste

You just take all of the above ingredients and "câlice them together" (as the chef would say) in a bowl, preferably, with your mits.

The FergurBurger is excellent served on a bed of your leafy-green-of-choice, with thin slices of sweet red onion and tomato...Dijon mustard and ketchup. Or, do as the Kid and dip your burger in to a dollop as you munch along.

Interesting tid-bit: The Mongols used to pack patties of meat underneath their saddles, which tenderized the meat and avoided them the hassle of dismounting in order to eat while on campaigns. And, contrary to popular belief…Genghis Khan was the greatest conqueror of all-time. Not Alexander. That’s right. He conquered more territory, with fewer men, than any other man in history. Genghis Khan didn’t allow anyone to write anything about him while he was alive, either. I like that.

...uN pEtit cHeF daNs sA CuisiNe...

Babysitting lesson of the week: when you're three and someone helps you reach the counter you can prep your own dinner.

These are fine times for sidewalk bouquet making.
With all the rain there are many flowers with broken stems looking for a home.

...CuteStuff...

Now this is what I call a book: 71 pages of cupcake.

...Snacks and Cereal...

I just received a memo from my senior attaché in Philadelphia about the latest grab-bags back home, which got me thinking about the days when Michael Jordan was on the Wheaties box and how I didn't know who was on it this year. So I checked out the Wheaties site. They brought back Dr. J after 25 years and gave Steve Nash his first appearance. Dr. J, ofcourse. As for Steve Nash? Well, personally, I would have given it to AI.

¡¡¡ Hot Dog !!!

Mont-Royal Hot Dog fries all of their fryables in peanut oil.
Now, you ask, "Does this heighten the scrumptiouness of their poutine?"
Well, I'd have to say, "Yes."

Their terrace also adds to the dining experience.
Sous le soleil exactement avec une poutine: as wonderful a remedy for a cobwebbed mind as it is a way to spend the afternoon with your main squeeze.

Mont-Royal Hot Dog
1001, Mont-Royal E.
(Across the street from the 2006 "Au Coton")

...My Around The Way Seamstress...

"Standing up or lying down, a woman has to work." - Maria Moite

Made from scratch and silkscreened by the chilean by-way-of-Montréal seamstress/cinéaste Mlle. Lela Quesney.

Please direct all messenger pigeons regarding commissions of aprons or other, to: dichotomees@yahoo.com

Bises, Lela.

...The Fannie Farmer...

I have a bunch of cookbooks and books (related to food) that I'd like to share with you. We'll start off with the "The Fannie Farmer" because it's one of my favorites.


The Fannie Farmer Cookbook (1990 edition)
revised and updated by Marion Cunningham
**Published originally in 1896 under the title "The Boston Cooking School Cook Book" by Fannie Merrit Farmer**

It's just what the cover says it is: "The All-American Cookbook Classic", and I crack it open whenever I'm in need of consulation. Usually when I'm unsure at what temperature/time to cook a certain cut of meat or want to make some kind of flapjack.

It has basic recipes that will always come in handy (e.g. pancakes, soup stock, béchamel sauce...) and many more original ones from different regions in the United States. It's full of interesting stories and tid-bits about the recipes themselves, and reads something like a history lesson.

When it's not on my kitchen-shelf...it's cause it's in my handgbag and I'm about to read it on the métro. I love it and give it many stars.

** The 1972 edition of "Joy of Cooking" by Irma S. Rombauer and Marion Rombauer Becker is also an excellent all-purpose compendium. I also give it many stars.

D.A.D.S. Bagels

D.A.D.S.'s sweet cream cheese filled pastry, aka "the cheese bagel", is an NDG classic and something I tried for the first time a few weeks ago (and found to be quite spectacular).

When I found out that Alena Skateboarding mastermind Jeremy Bresnen was a connaisseur and lover of the cheese bagel, I had my Gyr falcon deliver a few written questions over to him. A few hours later Mordecai returned; and, this is how Mr. Bresnen responded:

Q: WHEN DID YOU TRY YOUR FIRST CHEESE BAGEL? YOUR FIRST D.A.D.S. CHEESE BAGEL?

JB: D.A.D.S. itself? Probably 8 or 9 years ago. A cheese bagel itself? Early
childhood. Montreal has a great tradition of bakeries and I've tasted
quite a few different varieties. The D.A.D.S. cheese bagel is the closest
I've found to the ones I used to get growing up at Cantors on Queen
Mary.

Q: TOP FIVE FAVORITE SWEETS?

JB: Hmmm. I'm not a huge sweets fan. I lean more towards salty but....
Picking a top 5 is always tough ,but here it goes:

#1 is definitely Coke. It's great to wash down the salty and it's
refreshing pretty much anytime. Easily the best drink ever thought up
by Man. Unfortunately, I've recently cut back on my Coke intake.
Trying not to drink any.

#2 is probably the cheese bagel.

#3, #4 and #5 are a tie between Reese's Peanut Butter Cups, Chocolate
chip cookies, and from time to time, a Crunchie bar.

Q: AT WHAT TIME OF THE DAY DO YOU USUALLY LIKE TO INDULGE IN A CHEESE BAGEL?

JB: They are best in the morning as that's when they are most often fresh
and warm out of the oven, but I've certainly had them at all times of
the day

Q: BEVERAGE OF CHOICE TO ACCOMPANY A CHEESE BAGEL?

JB: It's best with a Coke or a tall glass of cold milk. I'll be sticking
with MILK from now on.

Q: HOW OFTEN DO YOU PICK UP A CHEESE BAGEL?

JB: When the store [Alena] was open and D.A.D.S. was on the way to work I'd have probably 2 or 3 a week...I think. I might be lying to feel better about myself.

Q: DO YOU HAVE ANY IDEA WHAT "D.A.D.S." STANDS FOR?

JB: No Idea. I think it says it somewhere inside the store. You could ask
them. It used to be wholly owned by a friendly jewish man. I think he
still works there from time to time but now it's run by an indian
family. Cheese bagels and Tikka chicken. Who would have thought?

***D.A.D.S. is located on Sherbrooke West between Harvard and Wilson
***They are a 24 hour establishment

...Eater of butter cookies...

Poilâne's butter cookies (aka "Punitions") are Turf's favorite. Back in the day you could catch him munching on them whether in trouble or double trouble. I went to their shoppe the other day to see what the man behind the gasmask was talking about.

The bakers at Poilâne make no more than 10 items, which include: regal loaves of bread, all marked with a calligraphic "P" (the kind the three musketeers would have eaten); butter cookies; and, apple tarts. So while they don't make many things, they make everything to perfection, using simple, few and well-married ingredients. I'd like to think of them as one of Paris' seven baking wonders.

As for Turf...well, he's one of the few living artists carrying on the tradition of the Flemish masters. I'm even beginning to think he's Van Eyck in disguise. To enter the world of Turfizm...
He and his partner in crime, Lela, also made a documentary about the catacombs of Paris called "Dead Space", which will hopefully be coming to a theatre or video store near you, soon.

And yes, the butter cookies do live up to the legend.

...4 Photos...

...Introducing my sous-chef...

Bird used to enjoy hanging out on my shoulder when I cooked.
Now she prefers listening to albums or eating snacks.
I still consider her my main sous-chef, though, as she's cooked many a dish with me.

Bird is almost three and a half.
I found her in a pet store on a cold November day.
She was hanging upside down from her cage - squawking like mad - while her brothers and sisters just kind of chilled.
I found myself standing on the street hailing a cab with a parakeet, cage and bag of birdseed in my arms, thirty minutes later.

Bird's favorite albums: "The Blueprint" and "Talkie Walkie"
Bird's favorite snacks: arugula, spinach and homemade honey glazed apple peel
Bird's favorite dance: the side shuffle, followed by the hustle or electric slide - depending on where you're from in the good ol' U.S. of A.

...Blue Taters...

We had our hebdomadal dinner party with Maître Ferguson last night - made steaks, mashed blue potatoes and garlic spinach. Hitchcock would have been pleased.

The purée sparked up a fierce political debate, however, when M. Ferguson insinuated that québécois potatoes were inferior to those of Idaho and P.E.I. Apparently it's common knowledge that P.E.I.'s and Idaho's are way better? Come on now...if it's from Québec it's got to be good.


**This is a peeled blue potato. Tastes just like a regular potato.
I read up on the blue patates after dinner. Sources say that unlike white or yellow ones, they are full of anti-oxidants. Anti-oxidants keep your body's cells happy.



Our meal was accompanied by this "Séléction Ferguson".
"Cruz de Piedra", Granacha 2003, from the Calatayud vignobles found in the mountains between Madrid and Zaragoza.
At 14 degrees, this (on the sweet side) wine packs a punch. A fine catch.
Thanks Matt.

...Renoncules...

Genus name: rananculus asiaticus
Song I hear when I see them: Duke Elllington's "The Star-Crossed Lovers".

...Unpasteurized Business...

I love it when the cheese department at the grocery store decides to have a sale.
It's like I'm ten and just heard the ice cream truck.

When I saw this "Brillat-Savarin" with a "SPECIAL" sticker on it, I almost climbed over the counter to give the cheese lady a hug.

Butter is churned cream. This cheese tastes a lot like butter.
It's got a super velvety crust and is extremely rich and smooth on the inside.
I suppose it's like butter...minus the churning process.

This cheese has been around since the 1930s.
A man named Henri Adrouet created it.
He named it in honor of the famous 18th century food writer, Brillat-Savarin.
Beautiful story, no?

...Sometimes...My...Groceries...Make...Me...Happy...

Tonight's ingredients: penne, pancetta, onion, tomato, parmesean, olive oil, salt, pepper and maybe a few black olives.

...Cocoa, oh, oh...

It's been a while...
I hope this year of the dog is treating you all very well.

So here's a little something I dug up out of the vaults.

There's a little candy shoppe in Paris that goes by the name of "La Bonbonnière de la Trinité".
They make sweets.
What kinds of sweets?
A family of chocolates (to whom belongs an out of the ordinary truffle, that I'd like to shout out at the end of this post), caramels, mints, fruits confits and a slew of other earthly delights...
They've been making them since? Since 1925.
So 1925 doesn't make them quite as old as Maiffret or Fauchon, but, then again, neither one of them are by any means...seniors of Acamapichtli.

Acamapichtli was the first ruler of the Aztecs (1376-1396).
He would have called chocolate, 'Nahuatl' (bitter-water), because the Aztecs liked to drink their cocoa. They enjoyed solid chocolate, too.
Calling it 'Xocoatl', and making it by grinding together cocoa beans with sugar, they produced a chocolate, that once in your mouth, would become granulated in texture. Nothing like the solid chocolate we are accustomed to today, which owes its smoothness to the incorporation of emulsifiers.

Today the Oaxacan tradition is kept alive in Mexico, by artisans, and on the native island of Don Corleone by chocolate company, Bonajuto.
I had the fortune of trying some Xocoatl Bonajuto during the summer of my twentieth year - back when I was working at that deli.
Having always fancied a sandy consistency (pears, halvah, cream of wheat...) the discovery of xocoatl was like the mardi gras for my young palette. If I had any reason to merit an impresario, and Bonajuto were in the business of sponsoring people, for sure, I'd like to be on their team.

As for "La Bonbonnière de la Trinité" and their truffle...
Imagine encased in a millimeter thin shell, a silky blend of dark chocolate.
When you bite into it you hear a little pop, and then, wait, you don't understand what's going on cause the synapses in your brain are telling you that the rest of the truffle isn't solid. What?!
Remarkable.

Proust's grandmother used to make madeleines.
My grandmother used to make truffles.
Truffles are surprisingly easy to make.
I'll post the recipe up for you soon.
Until then...

La Bonbonnière de la Trinité
4, Place d'Estienne-d'Orves
Métro: Trinité

...My Grandmother's Truffle Recipe...

225 gr. of semi-sweet chocolate (equivalent to 1 box of Baker's semi-sweet chocolate)
2 tsp. cream
75 gr. butter
2 egg yolks
cocoa powder for dusting

1. Over a bain-marie, melt chocolate and butter.
(A bain-marie is when you take a saucepan, fill it with water and place a bowl/pan over it to slow cook the bowl's/pan's
contents).

2. In a bowl, whisk together egg yolks and cream.

3. When the chocolate and butter have melted, remove from stove and incorporate egg yolk/cream mixture.

4. Add extracts and/or spices to the chocolate (e.g. cinnamon, garam masala, vanilla).
At times my grandmother would add a capful of Grand Marnier.

5. Allow the chocolate to chill in the fridge for an hour.

6. Remove from fridge and allow to soften. This should take about 15 mintues.

7. Mold chocolate into balls and dust with cocoa powder.
My grandmother would always put a toasted hazlenut in the center of hers.

8. Distribute to loved ones.

...ChaudChaudLeVinChaud...

Mulled wine. Vin Chaud. Here's what you'll need:

1 bottle of red wine (an inexpensive one will do the trick)
cinnamon (1 or 2 sticks)
cloves (4 or 5)
the peel of half of an orange

The thing is, you can really use any spice you like.
Anise, slices of ginger, black peppercorns,
allspice, etc.

Preparation:
Combine your wine, zest and spices in a saucepan.
Simmer for atleast 15 minutes (over medium heat).
Strain and serve.
Add sugar and any ground spices you fancy.

...One for Hubbard...

Tried my first Mint Julep tonight. All I can say is this: get your hands on one if you can. Cause it has got to be one of the most refreshing, soothing, finest cocktails/nightcaps ever.

Here's where I had my One Mint Julep.
They serve all kinds of night wines and cognacs, and are a strictly jazz playing, hush hush, queen anne chair, cigar smoking kind of place. Very cozy...

Le Café du Passage
12, Rue de Charonne - 11ème
Métro: Bastille

...ChouChouChoucroute...

Love a choucroute.

Choucroute= sauerkraut topped with a hock, saucisse de Strasbourg, slab of bacon and a few potatoes. Everything is cooked in white wine or Alsatian riesling. The sauerkraut is tangy, the meats salty, their juices sweet – a veritable fiesta of flavors and textures.

People have been enjoying it since the 15th century. It's from the region of Alsace.

A recipe for choucroute.

...Pass the Spatula...

E. Dehillerin. They've been around since 1820 and, from what I understand, big chefs, pâtissiers, and homemakers love them.
They've got all kinds of tools to make delicate pastries; copper pots large enough to seat one person, comfortably; a very extensive line of knives...
In fact, two people came in the shop looking for knives this afternoon: a chef, and a student of the Cordon Bleu. The chef bought this super obscure meat slicer (darnit, i don't remember the name) that he'd been unable to find in other shops, and the student, the knife she needed in order to pass one of her exams.
I spent a little over two hours rummaging around the place and hawking this cherry red Le Creuset tarte tatin dish. One could easily spend the day there. I don't think they'd mind, either.
They make these lovely boxwood spatulas, too.

E. Dehillerin: Le Spécialiste du Matériel de Cuisine
18, rue de Coquillère
Metro: Palais Royal/Musée du Louvre

...Breakfast at Cartier's...

...Lamb roast the fireplace way...

Cousins and I made dinner last week. We roasted a leg of lamb in the fireplace and made gnocchi.
We used this clockwork spitjack from the 18th century - quite the ingenious device.
Three hours later...juicyfalloffthebonetastiness.

...Merry Christmas Everyone...

A gift from the sea.

...Kousmichoff knows about the top-shelf...

Today I stopped by Kusmi Tea to do some christmas shopping. The Kousmichoff story: In 1867 they set up shoppe in St. Petersburg (where they supplied the czars of Russia with tea) and later moved here in 1917 – reckon the bolsheviks had something to do with that. Since then, they've nestled in the back of a small courtyard off a busy avenue in the 17th. A simple foyer with shelves holding over 20 different varieties of tea and a room with a cash register make this place remarkably low-key...considering the legacy.

You can find Kusmi teas in Montréal at “Folie en Vrac” on Mont-Royal, or at “La Vielle Europe” on St. Laurent. However, “La Vielle Europe” has samples to smell, and seeing as a tin of 125 g does cost the small fortune of $15 (luckily you only need about one teaspoon per pot) better to go there. "Anastasia" and "Troïka" blends are delightful.

Watercress: The poor man's bread.

I found this beautiful bunch of watercress in a little grocery store yesterday, and did a little research when I got home.

A remarkable source of vitamin C (as well as other vitamins and minerals), watercress is thought to be (amongst other things) a cure for baldness, an aphrodisiac and an excellent remedy for hangovers. Back in 19th century England watercress was commonly eaten for breakfast between two slices of bread or alone as the "poor man's bread". For more insightful tidbits about watercress...

The Aligre Market, Paris.

Back in France for the holidays visiting mom, pops and company. This morning we all hoped on the metro and made our way to the Marché Aligre near the Gare de Lyon (open 7 days a week) to seek out oysters. While we were there I took a photo of some mâche (lamb's lettcue) thinking I would blog about its many virtues. But then, well, I caught sight of some pretty irresistible looking carrots basking in the warm winter sun – some beautiful lychees from madagascar; prosciutto di parma; olive oil from algeria, italy and france; dorade rose and coquilles st. jacques from normandy; boar legs; etc, etc, etc – and started clicking away. As for the oysters, well, leave it to the camera to run out of juice. Hundreds of people, vendors shouting out prices and telling clients that vitamins will bring them beautiful children. Enough said.

The Royal Butternut

Butternut squash. One of the finer names of the produce section? I think, yes. My fourth year of university had me making this from about November until February. It goes without saying that (it being in my fridge all the time) a bit of experimention came about on the degustation side of things as the winter months rolled by. Example...I would put toasted bread with goat cheese on the soup one day, add cream to it another, add some left over rice and parmesean to it the next. This recipe is versatile. Enough said.

What you'll need: About 2 liters of homemade stock (using my interpretation of vegetable soup stock or any of the thousands of soup stock recipes that exist on the internet) or the kind you buy at the supermarket. You'll also need a large butternut squash (or two smaller ones) and a blender.

Preparing the butternut:

Pre-heat your oven to 350 degrees.
Cut your butternut squash in half (lenghtwise) and discard its seeds and filaments.
On a baking sheet, pan, whatever, place the butternut squash skin side up so that the orange part of the squash is lying face down on the baking sheet. Poke some holes through the skin using a fork and bake for 25-30 minutes, or until a knife slides through the squash with ease.

Preparing the soup stock:

I'm back and ready to type away this recipe once and for all. I apologize for the delay. So really, as long as you cook your vegetables well (before adding water to them) and allow them to simmer for about an hour, you're in business. This is by no means the best vegetable stock out there, but it requires minimal ingredients, so it's good for when you don't have lots lying around the kitchen. You can add almost anything too it as well. Try dressing it up with some boiled potatoes and leeks, or cauliflower, or a whole bag of carrots if you're not a lover of the butternut.

What you'll need:

6 carrots, chopped
5-6 celery stalks, chopped
2 large onions or 4 small ones, chopped
3 whole garlic cloves, peeled
tbsp. salt
black peppercorns (optional)
bay leaf (optional)

Materials:
A large pot (something that can hold 4 or 5 liters)
A blender

Once you’ve finished chopping up all of your vegetables take about 1/4 c. of olive oil and add it to your pot.

Place pot on stove and set to medium heat. When the oil is hot add the carrots to the pot. When they have softened up a bit add the celery, then the onions and whole garlic cloves. Feel free to pour in more olive oil if you find that the vegetables are starting to stick to the bottom of the pan (I'm pretty sure I end up using about 1/3 c. of olive oil in total...if not more) if they burn/caramelize a bit, don’t fret, this will add loads of flavor to your stock. When you’re vegetables are well cooked (should take about 30 minutes or so) add enough water to cover them completely and then add about 2 or 3 cups more. Throw in your salt, black peppercorns, bay leaf.

Cover your pot and allow everything to simmer (low-medium heat) for about an hour. After this let your pot to cool off for about 10-15 minutes. Then, take all of the contents from the pot (minus the black peppercorns and bay leaf) and liquefy in the blender. Empty all of your blended stock into a large bowl.

When your butternut squash has finished cooking remove it from the oven, allow it to cool and peel away the skin. Put about a quarter of the squash into the blender and pour in some already blended vegetable stock. Pour these contents back into your pot. Repeat this step until all the butternut squash has been incorporated into the stock. Then add salt and pepper to taste, some cream, and enjoy.

Fresh Out The Kitchen

Sweet and cinnamony delights are these. Recipe. They don't mention this, but try adding some cinnamon, cardamom, allspice or what have you to the dough. Freeze the left over dough and enjoy all winter long...

Hot Chocolate for MyMainSqueeze.

You may wish to add more or less of the ingredients listed. I never use measuring utensils in the kitchen so the following quantities are a rough estimate. Also, you may choose add some coffee or espresso to your hot cocoa for extra zip.

1 c. of milk you enjoy
1 1/2 tbsp. cocoa powder
2 tsp. granulated sugar
2 dashes of ground cinnamon
1 dash of jamaican allspice

*Over a medium setting heat your milk in a saucepan.
*In a mug or bowl combine cocoa powder, sugar, cinnamon and allspice.
*Pour some milk from your saucepan into your mug or bowl. With a fork, beat the milk and powder together until all clumps have been obliterated.
*Right before your milk comes to a boil pour the rest of it into your mug. Give it a stir and enjoy.

Mambo Miam Miam

This dressing tastes especially good on arugula/roquette.

Equal parts of sesame oil and rice vinegar.
Pinch of salt.
Two pinches of sugar.
Put all ingredients in a glass jar and shake up.

** If you like a thicker dressing add more oil than vinegar.

Cornbread

My friend Kim doesn't hang out in the kitchen much because she's convinced that she has no skills when it comes to cookery, but the truth is...she makes the meanest cornbread in the State of Michigan. She's in Spain right now living an adventure, so I can't offer you her recipe. However, I will give you the Joy of Cooking's rendition because everyone needs to have atleast one cornbread recipe in their life.

3/4 c. flour
1 1/4 c. corn meal
2 1/2 tsp. baking powder ( I only use 2 tsp.)
2 tbsp. sugar
3/4 tsp. salt
1 egg, beaten
2-3 tbsp. butter, melted
1 c. milk

INSTRUCTIONS:
Preheat your oven to 400ºF.
In one bowl, mix together all of the dry ingredients.
In another bowl, beat the egg and combine it with the melted butter and milk.
Combine all of the ingredients together.
Pour the batter in to a greased pan or muffin tray.
If you use a pan the cornbread should take about 20-25 minutes to bake.
If you use a muffin tray they should take a little less time to cook (10 minutes), so keep an eye on them.