12.24.2007

MercyMercyMe...






With the possible exception of Gérard Mulot and Pierre Hermé most Parisians will agree that Ladurée's macaroons are the best in the city. Last week I went to rue Bonaparte to taste for myself. Between the sweet pillowy delights of lemon, vanilla and rose; not the mention the opulence of the shoppe, I left feeling pleasantly lightheaded. For a little sugar, click here.

12.20.2007

inaKi San





Events and circumstances iotas short of demonstrating the principles of string theory led my friend Ismay and I to the Chateaubriand this afternoon to break bread. Grateful they did as we were both in need of what we found: serious comfort food.

Pictured above: My new favorite drinking glasses; joue de boeuf (cow's cheek) served on a bed of spinach and leeks topped with zesty persillade; almond milk infused with roses, served with litchis & a pavé de chocolat with matcha ice cream; our empty plates.

I was so happy to learn, afterwards, that Inaki and his team of four recently melted the heart of the Figaro's harshest critic. Watch for him. The young basque chef has got his ticket to ride.

Interviews with the chef 1 & 2

Le Chateaubriand
129, Avenue Parmentier
Paris, 11ème
Métro: Goncourt

**Lunch (served between 12h-14h): 14 euros
**Dinner (served between 20h-21h30): 20-30 euros

12.11.2007

dELiciOus MoRseL



This walnut cake is a lot like a string quartet. The way I hear it: the nuts play the bass line on cello; the eggs carry the tenor voice on viola; the sugar plays the alto register of the first violin; and, the lemon zest, the soprano register of the second violin. It's light, and the crispy layer which forms on top of the cake will remind you of those little Amaretto cookies you find in cafés...which are always wrapped in the loveliest paper.

Recipe copied, parola per parola, from Maxine Clark's cookbook, Viva Italia.

L'Ingrediente:

2 cups walnuts
4 eggs, separated
1 1/4 cups sugar
Finely grated zest of 1 lemon
Confectioners' sugar, to decorate

Instruzioni:

Uno: Grease and flour a 9-inch springform pan. Line the bottom with wax paper.

Due: Grind the walnuts in a food processor until they are finely ground.
* Processorless, I got to chopping; it didn't take long to get the job done.

Tre: Put the egg yolks and sugar into a large bowl and whisk with an electric mixer until they are pale and creamy. Fold in the ground walnuts and lemon zest. Whisk the egg whites in a separate bowl until stiff then carefully fold them into the nut mixture. Gently pour the batter into the prepared pan.

Quattro: Bake the cake in a preheated oven, 350 degrees, Farenheit, for 45 minutes to 1 hour; until risen and firm. Let the cake coolin the tin; it will shrink away from the edges. When the cake is cold, remove it from the pan and dust with confectioners' sugar.